The Discovery of Puerto Galera

Puerto Galera is not only beautiful but it is also rich in history. What is sad is that people here do no know their amazing heritage.The Internet has done great wonders for researchers and history buffs like me. And 6 grueling weeks later, I have compiled a modest collection of mostly unpublished historical accounts about Mindoro and Puerto Galera.

In the days and weeks and months to come, I will gather more information from various sources hoping someday that I will have the time and the resources to publish a book on the history of this island. Now let me tell you the story of the first Europeans who came to Puerto Galera, the Spanish Conquistadores.

We all know Ferdinand Magellan tried to conquer the Philippines in 1521. Well he failed, he got killed, remember. Spain sent another expedition, it failed too. The third one also failed. But the fourth under Miguel Lopez de Legazpi did the job in 1565 which was the beginning of more than 300 years of Spanish colonial rule of the Philippines.

Legazpi had great help from two men who too earned their places in history. Martin de Goite, his maestro de campo, second in command, is known as the conqueror of Manila. Legazpi’s grandson, Capitan Juan de Salcedo, known as the last Conquistador is also the conqueror of Mamburao and Lubang.

Legazpi had set-up his base in Panay Island with around 300 hungry Spanish soldiers and hundreds of hungry conscripts from Panay and Cebu. Food was fast running out. Legazpi ordered Martin de Goite and Juan de Salcedo to look for a much bigger island with more food to sustain them. Off they went to Luzon to conquer the Kingdom of Manila. Along the way they discovered Mindoro and conquered Baco and Puerto Galera.

On May 8, 1570, Goite and Salcedo left the river of Panay. They were onboard the San Miguel, a Spanish galley. Tailing them behind was La Tortuga, a small frigate, and 15 big paraos (outrigger boats). With them were 90 soldiers (arquebusiers) and 20 sailors together with 400 warriors from Cebu called the Pintados (the painted ones). They were called Pintados because of their tattoos and the red clay that they used to smother all over their bodies.

Hernando Riquel was the chief notary and was in-charge of recording the events of the expedition.

They reached Sibuyan Island after sailing for 2 days then passed Banton Island. They didn’t stop at the two island although they saw many Indios as they were in a rush to find food. They came to Mindoro at Pola Bay first which was 12 leagues from Banton Island.

Riquel wrote: “From the island of Banton to that of Bindoro (Mindoro) there is a distance of about 12 leagues. The master-of-camp reached this latter place, and anchored there with all the vessels in his charge. Mindoro is also called the lesser Luzon. All its ports and maritime towns are inhabited by Moros. We hear that inland live naked people called Chichimecos (Mangyans). As far as could be seen, this island lacks provisions.”

News reached Martin de Goite that there were two Chinese vessels moored 5 leagues away from them in Baco River. Chinese merchants were called Sangleys.

Riquel wrote: “Seeing that the weather did not permit him to send the large ship, because the wind was blowing south by west, he despatched Captain Juan de Salcedo, with the paraos and rowboats to reconnoiter the said ships, and to request peace and friendship with them.”

Suddenly a “violent” southwest wind began to blow and the Spaniards “were compelled to put into harbor, and to find shelter for that night behind a promontory”.

However, 4 paraos and the frigate got separated from the fleet and drifted farther away. The next morning the Spaniards tried to regrouped and fired arquebuse shots to know the location of each vessel.

The paraos that were ahead north reached Baco river first and saw the two Chinese junks coming at them.

Riquel wrote: “The Chinese, either because news of the Spaniards had reached them, or because they had heard arquebuse-shots, were coming out side by side with foresails up, beating on drums, playing on fifes, firing rockets and culverins, and making a great warlike display. Many of them were seen on deck, armed with arquebuses and unsheathed cutlasses.”

The Spaniards who were more experienced in many battles fought the Sangleys although the paraos “were so small and low that they hardly reached the first pillar of the enemy’s ships.” This was to be the first recorded battle of foreigner versus foreigner in the Philippines.

The more experienced aim of the Spaniards was so effective that the Chinese took cover throughout the battle, and “the Spaniards were thus able to board their ships and take possession of them.”

Riquel wrote: “There were about eighty Chinese on board the two ships; about twenty were killed in the affray. The soldiers searched the cabins in which the Chinese kept their most valuable goods, and there they found silk, both woven and in skeins; gold thread, musk, gilded porcelain bowls, pieces of cotton cloth, gilded water-jugs, and other curious articles-although not in a large quantity, considering the size of the ships. The decks of both vessels were full of earthen jars and crockery; large porcelain vases, plates, and bowls; and some fine porcelain jars, which they call sinoratas. They also found iron, copper, steel, and a small quantity of wax which the Chinese had bought.

Captain Juan de Salcedo later arrived with the rear-guard of the paraos. He scolded his men for killing the Sangleys.

Riquel wrote: “The master-of-camp, Martin de Goite, who had remained behind with the arge ship, showed much more displeasure, when he heard of the occurrence. As soon as he was able to cast anchor with the San Miguel in the river of Baco (the name of the place where the Chinese vessels were found), he made all haste to make them understand that he was sorry for their misfortune, and that they had done wrong in sallying forth against the Spaniards. Nevertheless, he said he would give them, besides their freedom, a ship, in which they might return to their own country without any hindrance-besides whatever was necessary for their voyage. This was highly appreciated by the Chinese, who, being very humble people, knelt down with loud utterances of joy.”

Goite sent the other Chinese junk back to their base in Panay Island with all the goods taken from the Sangleys.

The people of Baco, seeing their superior armaments, did not fight the Spaniards and offered them peace. Goite assured them of peace but asked them to pay tributes to the King of Spain. The natives promised to pay 200 taels of gold (equivalent to around 9 kilos of gold) but told the Spaniards to wait for a few days, time needed for the natives to collect the gold.

The Spaniards were informed of the town of Mindoro (Puerto Galera) which was the capital of the island and that there were 3 more Chinese vessels there. And so the Spaniards wanted to depart quickly. Goite told the natives of Baco to have the gold ready upon his return and set out for the “port of Mindoro” which was “5 leagues away from Baco”. The Spaniards also heard that the “moros of Mindoro” had made great preparations for its defense, and had provided themselves with a large number of culverins, arrows, and other offensive weapons, and were entrenched in a very strong fort. This made the Spaniards more interested and in the morning of May 12, 1570 they departed for Puerto Galera…

The Spaniards were thrilled to go to the place they would later call Puerto de Galera; they wanted to see the strong fort that the people of Baco said to them. Hernando Riquel, tasked to record the expedition, wrote: “Departing from the river of Baco in the morning, the Spaniards arrived, by noon, at the town of Mindoro, which is an excellent seaport.”

Riquel described Minolo and the people they called Moros (Muslims) as follows: “The harbor has only one entrance. Its waters beat against a hill which is the first and the smallest of a chain of three hills overlooking the port. The other two hills are very craggy and thus form a defense to the pass for the natives. Many armed Moros appeared on the first hill-bowmen, lancers, and some gunners, linstocks in hand.

All along the hillside stood a large number of culverins. The foot of the hill was fortified by a stone wall over fourteen feet thick.” The Moros were well attired after their fashion, and wore showy head-dresses, of many colors, turned back over their heads. Many of them were beating drums, blowing horns made from shells, and ringing bells.”

Another account pegged the number of inhabitants to around 400 which disappointed the Spaniards as they thought they would see a big kingdom.  Riquel wrote: “The master-of-camp arrived with his ship, ahead of the oared paraos. When the first parao arrived, he embarked in it with the interpreter, and a recently-converted Moro, who served as guide.

With only these men, and one soldier armed with a shield, the master-of-camp advanced toward the Moro fort.

He reached the foot of the hill, without allowing any others to follow him; and, being unable to proceed any further on account of its steepness, he summoned from above two Moros, to treat for peace.

There seemed to be a difference of opinion among the Moros, as was gathered from their demeanor, for some made gestures of war, and others of peace, some of them even going so far as to throw a few stones and level the culverins. On the whole, they were not very anxious to fight.

Meanwhile, the master-of-camp was so near them that they could have spit on him. All the Spaniards had already disembarked, and stood at a harquebus-shot from the master-of-camp. The latter was so anxious to win over those Moros and gain their confidence, because they exhibited fear, that he wished to climb the hill on all fours to reach them; but his companions dissuaded him from this.

At this time Captain Juan de Salcedo, the sergeant-major, the high constable, and the ensign-major, came up; and the master-of-camp, the captain, and the officials were assembled there, with but one soldier, for the master-of-camp would not allow the others to advance.”

The Spaniards brought a guide from Baco who was known to the people of Puerto Galera. Riquel wrote: “The Moros having seen the peaceful attitude of our people, one of them descended the hill, almost on all fours. Our Moro guide advanced toward him; but, on account of the great steepness of the hill, he had to be helped up by the other Moro. After they had seen and recognized each other, and after the customary embrace and kiss, they descended to the master-of-camp.

Martin de Goite told the Moro who had come down, through the interpreter that he need not fear; for he had not come to harm them, but to seek their friendship. The Moro carried the message to the others upon the hill, and a chief came down; and, upon reaching the master-of-camp, said that he and the entire town wished to be his friends, and to help the Spaniards with whatever they possessed.
The master-of-camp answered that the proposition was acceptable; whereupon the Moro chief asked him to withdraw from that place-saying that, after they had withdrawn, he would come to treat of friendship and of what was to be given.”

The following will describe how the Spaniards scared the people into submission, Riquel wrote: “The master-of-camp, in order to please the chief, agreed to this; and told the chief that he was going to review his men, and that he should not be offended when he should hear harquebus-shots and the noise of artillery.

Accordingly, he withdrew to the place where his men were drawn up in order, and there a fine review took place-the company closing ranks in such perfect order that both the friendly Indians (who came with us) and the Moros on the hill were greatly frightened.

The master-of-camp ordered that the cannon amidship on the large vessel be fired.  The review had not yet ended when a Moro came with 60 gold taels (nearly 3 kilos), which he gave to the master-of-camp-asking him not to be offended if the gift were not brought quickly, because the people had dispersed through fear, and therefore it could not be collected so soon; but he promised that they would raise the amount to 400 taels (18 kilos).

The master-of-camp received this gold, and had it placed in a small box, the key of which he gave to the Moro, telling him to keep it until the promise was fulfilled; but to consider that after treason nothing could be more blameworthy than falsehood.”

Riquel wrote: “The Moro salaamed low, and said that he would not lie, and that they would fulfill their promise, little by little. And so they did, for, on that same day, four more messengers came with gold; and all entreated and begged the master-of-camp not to be offended at the delay, if there should be any. With these flatteries and promises the Moros detained us about 5 days, during which time we had friendly dealings and intercourse with them, although they mistrusted us to a certain extent.

They had already abandoned the first town on the shore and had withdrawn to a hill about two hundred paces away. There most of them had taken their wives, children, and part of their goods, although the best part of their property was kept farther inland. This hill was so well fortified by nature, that, had it not been for the two ladders, which the Moros kept in two places, one could have ascended it only with wings.

Notwithstanding all these difficulties, our Spaniards paid them friendly visits. On this little fortified spot the Moros had built their huts, as high as Mexican market-tents. They resembled a crowd of children with their holiday toys. During these five days, the Moros had, little by little, given 200 taels (9 kilos) of impure gold, for they possess great skill in mixing it with other metals. They give it an outside appearance so natural and perfect, and so fine a ring, that unless it is melted they can deceive all men, even the best of silversmiths.”

While in this port of Mindoro the master-of-camp sought information concerning the distance to Manila
Riquel wrote: “Our interpreter disagreed with the Moros of Mindoro as to the number of days it would take; but they all agreed that it was far, and that perhaps the weather would not permit us to sail thither.

The natives of Mindoro added also that the Spaniards were crazy to go to Manila with so small a force and that they pitied us. They recounted so many wonders of Manila that their tales seemed fabulous; they said that there were very large oared boats, each carrying 300 rowers, besides the warriors; that the people were well armed and excellent bowmen; that the ships were well equipped with artillery, both large and small; and that any one of those vessels could attack two paraos, and sink them when within range. With these accounts the Moros tried to discourage the Spaniards; but the more they attempted to frighten them with such things the more desirous they all became to set foot in Manila. In view of this, the master-of-camp did not wait for the full payment of what the Moros had promised; but, warning them to have the remainder ready upon his return; he left them on friendly terms, and set out to Manila with all his men.”

(Source: Relacion de las Yslas Filipinas, H. Riquel, The Phil. Islands, Blair and Robertson)